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Mike I have a 2009 Mercrusier 5.0 . Every year on the first ,second and third times out, the engine starts fine ,idles fine , when you first push the throttle down somewhere between 2 to 3 thousand rpm the engine runs very rough. If you try to add more power it will stall almost out. After the engine boggs and wants to stall, you can slowly add more power, then after say 5 min it will run just fine for the rest of your current time out. Seems to clear itself as the boating season progresses. I tried Quick Clean and Seafoam to no avail. Any Thoughts?

IS IT A GOOD CARB? OR SHOULD SWAP HOLLEY

i know when rebuilding these carbs they recomend zero-ing out the bleeder screws then turning them out about 1.5 turns as a starting point. BUT whats a zero-ed out stated of the choke adjustments look like? Context; i just bought a 76 F150 with 360/390 stock carb. it had a bad off idle stumble when i got it, so i decided to rebuild it. The FULE filter at the carb was overflowing with large grain rust, so i replaced it with a new one AND a see thru one pre pump.[note after just blowing out the old filter i could see thru it so i kept it] now with carb rebuilt im having trouble getting the choke to work AND also not keep high idle and slam into gear. if i get the idle slow enough then i have ot feather throttle for a minute on cold start cuz choke isnt right. Note; my heater tube from manifold is broke off like you mentioned., SO can i get this working for a spring/summer /fall truck w/o buying a warming tube or electric choke by just using the stock bracket to hold the htr core tubes against choke? How do i zero out the adjustment screws on choke to start getting it set up? ive already removed all unnecessary vac hoses and plugged everything off except brakes, dist and tranny. also need to plug warm tube hole like yuo mentioned

Hi Mike, I'm rebuilding a carb like this. There was NOT a washer(stepped) on the diaghragm shaft. The Standard rebuild kit says to use a 1/16" flat washer from the kit. It is plastic and not sure if I need to or should put this in. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also there is a metal washer in the kit that fits nicely but it is 1/8" thick.

Thank you sir! Your videos are excellent!

Are all the Rochester 2GC fast idle cams similar to one another? On my boat the cam is not stepped, but i see some that are. Is this a normal variant for boats?

Hi can you do a video explaining all the vacuum lines please

Put a dab of grease on accelerator pump armature, polish shaft and dab grease on spring, polish nose of spring end cap.

Very helpful video!! I didn’t take pictures and this really helped me with re-assembly!!

Vary dark can't see it

The top section of that carb has a plug over that screw that you can pop out. Then you can adjust the metering rod by just removing the air filter housing. Did that to mine probably 30 years ago, still running in my old F250. I usually have to adjust it for emissions testing, and I added an air/fuel gauge to get it right. I also made a plug for that hole out of a vent valve seal. Just trimmed the edges so it fit in the hole.

For the a/f idle screws is it clock wise leaning it and counter clockwise richening it?

I bought a rebuilt Q jet from rock auto #702 9207 and out of the box it ran very rich. Adjusting the idle mixture screws where no help. The float level was good. I installed a fuel pressure regulator and adjusted it down to the #2 and it ran better. I decided to take it a part and found that the power piston spring appears to be too short. It doesn't lift it at all. I looked for a carb kit that has the spring included ,wasn't able to find one. I found a number of springs in your store but I have no clue which one is correct. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great video,thanks

Helpful video! I'm working on my new to me 64 Biscayne with the 230. Who ever messed with the carburetor last put the fast idle cam on backwards. It would stall out at operating temp.

I have thus carb, been struggling with it for some time. It's my first carb if that helps. But in the manual, it says "IMPORTANT: Before checking float level, raise float and allow it to fall; however, DO NOT force downward by hand" Does this mean: 1. I simply let it rest by itself and do the measuring and bending? Or 2. I lightly push down on the float taking care to not apply too much force and then take the measurement? The numbers are 9mm amd 24mm for me because I have the spring loaded one. So do I let it rest on its own upside down and measure 9, or do I lightly push down and measure 9?

Hi Mike I have Pontiac 455 3 Rochester middle carb what is normal set the 2 mixture screws?

I am wondering how to remove the old leather plunger and installing the new blue one that came in the kit. watching the video you did not show how to do so. this is for a rochester bc one barrel,

Thank you, I have been working on a D-15 II for a couple years now and this was the best video i have seen for the carburetor.

Thanks, Mike! Great video, short, to the point, solved the problem! Thanks! Lost and Found Classics.

Hi there, so I'm working on one of these carbs. When I tipped mine over 2 check balls came out instead of a ball and weight. Either that or I lost the weight when I tipped this over on the bench. Could this carb have used a second check ball as the weight or am up a creek on getting this thing back into working order. Or do you guys have an extra check weight I can buy with a rebuild kit?

From what I've been reading the standard float level is too high and will cause flooding. How much lower should it be set?

Thanks

what about using a 5/64" drill bit to set the gap on the choke plate per the mercruiser service manual?

Thank you for no stupid intro and straight into a video that helped me right when I needed it.

You golden soul …super helpful 3 second video like and follow just for that

Thank You Very much

This helped me sooo much, thanks for being so cool

I couldn't see what he was pointing out because he was holding the part away from the camera instead of towards the camera.

So mines an 85 Chevrolet Impala with a 305 th2004r 2.41 rear gears and a posi off idle and a dead stop it's a slug it barely moves but if your in second gear or any other gear and it kicks down 1/2 gears it pulls like a freight train and can knock a house down but im thinking mine might be a combination of issues I'm going to try replacing the ignition module and coil just as a preventative measure and im doing a tune up But part throttle it can chirp the tires but full throttle nothing it has mid length headers full exhaust ive done the timing advance springs and seems to have woken the car up through the curve and a new air cleaner the car has 54,000km since new

So my guess is that you are rebuilding the new Chinese copy as a lesson in Marvel Schebler carb work? Love your work on the ‘56 T-bird carb and several others including the Aisan FJ40 too! 👏👏👏

My original vent rod has the notch at 7/16" . Should I use that, or the 1/4" you specify? Also, does the clip "sandwich" the vent actuating lever, or are the two holes of the clip next to each other?

Does a problem with this vent cause vapor lock? When my 1964 200-6 engine is warm or hot it is difficult to start. I've been told this is caused by vapor lock, and my vent rod is broken.

God bless you sir❤!!!!!!!!!

Hey, could you plz help me with my carb it's like it's not getting gas at idle it will stay running if I'm giving it gas

These 2 videos have saved my life, I have not been able to find the proper kit that has everything I need and the kit for this is everything I need

Hard to follow with it constantly being waved around every which way.

Brilliant, exactly what I was looking for. May thanks, regards.

Thank you sir. Back in the 80's I never did anything with a BBD except throw them away. Always had to make room for a Thermoquad. Now that I simply wanted a good daily driver (84 D 150, 318/727) my notes on TQ's didn't help. The carb I'm using is a 74 and my only deviation from your guide was between 1/32 and 1/16 of a gap in the needle setting to give a little more fuel to compensate for the stupid corn juice in our gas.

worst lighting ever

Gotta be best video out there, he teaches choke adjustment and everything else you should know to get her purring Thank you

What did you spray on the gasket before applying it? Does it help the gasket seal? Thanks!

Muchas gracias mike valiosa tu información

Saludos desde México Mike, muchas gracias por la información... Tienes un nuevo suscriptor 🔥🔥🔥 Acabo de descargar algunos manuales de tu página ¡excelente por cierto!

Wondering what makes these leak from the base. I opened my carb up and whatever is causing the leak empties the fuel bowl. Dont understand how it could drop down to the metering orfice. It apears its somehow escaping through the metering orfice or pinhole at bottom of fuel bowl

My Choke plate is kind of stuck and its sometime hard to move when its close most of the part. Is there anyway or how I can clean that to make it run smooth? BTW, its not able to close all the way, not sure it suppose to be the way it is?

Instead of a noid light you could probably use a non contact voltage tester/hot stick

Your parts? A high-quality good bargain. Your teaching? PRICELESS. Thanks.

Mike, what makes a quadrajet surge when driving

Hello Mike, you cap of the hole were the hot air is drawn in. But this hole gets vacuum from te same channel as the power piston. Won't the increase in vacuum in that channel cause for too much piston action, thus a leaner mixture? I hooked up a vacuum meter to a 2x wcfb 1956 Eldorado setup with electric chokes, and the difference in vacuum whit open or closed hot air intakes was visible, also the drop/rise in rpm.

Plymouth 1954